Mexico Continued

Following the Monarch trip, I met up in Huatulco with the gang from Chiripa. This required an early flight from Morelia to Mexico City and a 6 hour layover before flying on to Huatulco. I believe I will no longer be reluctant to fly through Mexico City. That's a good thing.

The sun rises over one of the nine bays around Huatulco.

Huatulco is on the southern Pacific coast of Oaxaca and is a "new" development. We stayed at the Princess Mayev hotel with a poolside room. 

The pool was usually hopping with Mexican families and only a couple of pale Gringos.

We did tourist things like hanging out at a couple beaches (La Entrega was best) snorkeling and splashing in the ocean. I loved the ocean water. I could float! My dense body has always sunk like a rock in water. Here I felt like a feather floating on the ocean. And I loved looking at beautiful fish just under the surface.

We hired a driver for a day and we took in an eco-preserve (La Ventanilla) where we saw crocodiles, turtles, and birds while paddling to an island where there is a coconut plantation, animal restoration, a museum, and a small restaurant. Then we drove a short distance to a turtle museum and a cosmetic factory in Mazunte. Be sure to read the story about the owner of The Body Shop coming to Mazunte and helping to establish a business to replace the turtle harvesting that was outlawed.

Our favorite meal place in Huatulco was at Terra Cotta (The link goes to the hotel connected to the restaurant. Just click on the restaurant icon.). We had a great dinner and went back for a breakfast. Air conditioned and quiet. 

Overall, the weather was hot and humid and I felt like a tourist. I'll likely not return.

Jim takes in Oaxaca with our mini-plane in the background. 

We took a small plane from Huatulco to Oaxaca de Juarez flying low enough to see the winding mountainous road we could have been on. We checked into our old favorite hotel Las Golandrinas. Here the elevation is higher and the weather is cooler and less humid (all year long!).

The breakfast area outside our door at Las Golandrinas.

We spent time visiting with our former vendors catching up on news of the families. We were lucky to find all of the Chavez family in Oaxaca although not at the same time. Janet is about to pursue her doctorate in linguistics (I think) and Omar who recently graduated with an engineering degree may be trying his skills in Monterry. Brother Eric who was our very first Chavez connection is embarking on a new position with the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation connecting artisans with commercial vendors. And Eric's wife Elsa who manages a natural textile dying operation is pregnant with their first child. Whew! So fun to see them all!

The Chavez family L to R: Federico, Dolores, Janet, and Omar at their weaving shop in Oaxaca.

Bulmaro Perez was at his home and workshop in Teotitlan del Valle.
He can charm anyone!

A bus ride out to Arrazola took us to the workshop of the people who made the many lizards we sold at Chiripa. Josefina and Oscar were both working. If was fun to see them and meet their daughter who is continuing the tradition.

Josefina Morales and Oscar Carrillo at their workshop in Arrazola, Oaxaca.

Shopping was on the list of things to do, but it's not the same when you're not buying inventory for a shop! We also visited our favorite museums: stamps and textiles.

We took a bus from Oaxaca to Puebla and met up with the Paredes family. They took us to the new Baroque Museum where we had a spectacular meal. We're hoping they will visit us in Madison next fall.

Miguel and Lilia on the left and Daniel on the right.

Our red-eye to Chicago was uneventful and we arrived home via bus before noon. It was cold and windy and grey reminding me of why I love Mexico.

Visiting Monarchs in Mexico

The mystery of the monarch migration and their threatened status compelled me to visit their winter hibernating grounds in the state of Michoacan in central Mexico. I had seen them many years ago and remember a frigid morning, a bumpy ride in the back of a pickup truck, and many beautiful monarchs dead on the ground because of the recent freeze. This time I hit the jackpot! Warm weather had pushed up the migration and I saw thousands leaving the mountain and heading south. Those still at the reserve and sanctuary were out in huge numbers. Some were still in clumps on branches and against tree trunks. All were breathtaking.

We visited two preserves. Each offered the option of hiking or riding horseback up the mountain.

Telephoto lens used to see these monarchs plastered to the tree. Amazing!

I believe the fates were teaching me a lesson. "Come to experience the beauty. Leave the recording to others." The first night of my visit my camera took a dive face-first shattering the exterior protective lens. The short zoom seemed to operate but with a stubborn hitch. The electronics seemed OK. But, alas, although there were no images on the card a message read “card full.” I gave up on the second day and I snapped a couple with my phone and sat down and took in the experience. My attempt at a video is kind of cool. 

Magical. Amazing. Spiritual. Transformative. Many words came from the lips of our group. For each it was a little different. For me, it reinforced the power of nature; the mystery of why things happen; and a commitment to do what I can to help these amazing creatures survive.

Not the focus or quality I wanted, but a peek at these fleeting beauties.

We look for them in Wisconsin in the summer and send them on their way south in the fall. Visiting the monarch’s southern home took us into the homes of host families who support this tour. Visit the website: www.Concer3.com. My roommate and I had the good fortune of staying with Jorge and Rosa and their two sons. What a spectacular family! They treated us like family and that included a lot of love. The trip would not have been the same without them.

Each morning we woke to find the table set and coffee ready.

Chilequiles, papaya, smoothie, hot chocolate, and more. What a breakfast feast!

Our host family. ¡Muchas gracias!

The second half of the trip took me to familiar territory in the Patzcuaro area and that, too, felt like a homecoming. I miss shopping for the beautiful artisan crafts of Michoacan. Mexico will always be a very special place for me.

Ancient convent wall in Patzcuaro, Michoacan, Mexico.

Mexican flag in Morelia, the capital of the state of Michoacan, Mexico.

Missing from this post: the frustration of the 5 (!*!#!) days that it took for 7 of us to get our "lost" luggage from American Airlines. Note to self: don't leave from Madison, WI in the winter if the trip schedule is critical. De-icing was our downfall; limited rescheduling options.

De-icing at the Madison airport prior to take-off.
Too bad the unit stopped working!

Apostle Islands, Wisconsin Summer 2016

Jim and I met Heather and Greg in Bayfield, WI for a late summer vacation. After lunch at a funky 50s-style restaurant we took the ferry over to Madeline Island.

Our rented cabin was quite deluxe with many amenities including WiFi wich can be hard to find up there. We took advantage of the nice weather to explore Big Bay State Park.

Saturday was a rainy day. We made the most of it. Heather and I finished binding the books we had started on my last trip to Minneapolis. I hope I'm brave enough to write and draw in mine!

We explored the town of La Pointe visiting the Madeline Island Historical Museum where Ojibwa basket makers were demonstrating their art. Gallery hopping, dinner in town and then a fierce game of Catan rounded out our day. We woke to sun on Sunday and after packing up we did some hiking. 

After a good lunch of fish tacos and sandwiches Heather and Greg boarded the ferry and headed back to Minneapolis. Jim and I went to set up our campsite at Big Bay State Park. 

The park includes a beautiful beach and the water was swimmable!

We took one hike along a boardwalk that parallels the beach. Another took us around the southeast edge of the park along the cliffs. The waves were crashing. It was quite lovely.

We biked to town, but probably won't take our bikes on trips like this in the future. The ride seemed more required than desired.

Our next camping spot was the city park and campground in Bayfield. We secured a beautiful site overlooking Lake Superior. What a treat! 

Although we don't need electricity for camping, I found the provided outlet handy for recharging my new lantern.

Bayfield is home to many area orchards and we were lucky enough to run into one that was selling Colorado peaches! Yum! They were the best! Can't beat peaches on your morning granola!

We took a cruise of the islands that are part of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. The islands are not very accessible. One can take boat rides to a couple of the islands to hike and camp and there are some kayak opportunities, but the lake can be pretty intimidating. We learned a lot about the local history of the area and enjoyed our evening tour.

The sea caves on Devils Island were spectacular.

As the evening progressed the light became golden.

The lighthouse on Raspberry Island was glowing. 

 And we were treated to a beautiful sunset.

We took day trips to other parts of the park. On the western side we hiked at Meyer's Beach above the sea caves that are a winter destination if the lake freezes over. Many kayakers took in the sites from water level. We had some beach time and found a fish shop with smoked lake trout and whitefish (Halvorson Fisheries in Cornucopia, WI). Another treat!

As we headed south we stopped for a hike at Houghton Falls Nature Preserve. It is a magical area that leads to a great lake view. The history of the area is fascinating!

And once again I saw the "Knowles-Nelson Stewardship Program" sign and gave thanks for those who have been forward thinking to preserve these special places. That program has been all but defunded in our current legislature. It is so sad.

Our last couple days were spent at our cabin. Great weather, no bugs. 

Some Thoughts and Tips on Camping

from a person growing older. Our recent trip to Utah was an experiment of sorts. Could an old married couple (almost 46 years of it) spend that much time in a car (4,477 miles) and camping together and enjoy it? I think the answer is yes. Thanks first to Kitty, who got us reintroduced to hiking and camping last summer in Alaska and to Julie for loaning us lots of Utah hiking books. Wow! was the most helpful.

We spent a good deal of time planning and getting our gear set. Some of the success is due to some cool new products.

This USB charged camping light never failed.

A new camping stove made morning coffee a snap. (It boils water faster than our gas range.)

New stove, old pots and thermos. Dripped through filter in funnel. Worked great.

Jim as always first up and had coffee ready for me.

A new camp chair meant I was comfortable sitting anywhere and reading in the tent.

And finally, the new car meant the ride was more comfy and we could sleep in it when/if needed.

What would we do differently?

1) when traveling in spring, check when local/state schools have their spring break

2) build in a couple rest days (not driving, not hiking). This photo was an anomaly on the trip, but a favorite moment.

3) ?????

Final thoughts more directly related to this blog:

I was often the slowest person on a trail. That doesn't bother me, but it makes me wonder if new knees would make a difference. I used at least one hiking pole on almost all hikes. Coming down rocks is not easy for me. I want to keep working my knees so they don't quit on me, but if they do, they'll be as strong as they can be for replacement.

We hadn't planned to track birds, but it proved to be an entertaining diversion. We also looked at many wildflowers and Jim could identify most, but we should have had a local flower book as well.

It wasn't quite warm enough to count as a winter getaway to a warm climate. Most days were sunny and perfect for hiking, but I would have preferred to be HOT a few of those days. I'm beginning to think I done enough winters. I've paid my dues, so to speak. I wonder what I'll be able to put together for next winter (and spring). It's April 30th; 45 degrees; rainy; windy and I can't get warm. Sigh.

We stop at most historical markers or special overlooks. The most interesting one on this trip was on Hwy 12 at a very high peak. A plaque gave tribute to Ellen Powell Thompson a botanist who travelled with John Wesley Powell on his second survey trip to the Colorado plateau. She was John's sister and the wife of ?? Thompson who was also a surveyor on the expedition. She identified and named many of the plants in the area and one is named after her: Thompson's Wooly Locoweed. This little piece of information stirred many questions yet unanswered. Who was she? That would not have been an easy trip in those times. 

A locoweed, but probably not Thompson's

Overall, living on that ancient landscape for a couple weeks and learning about the geology of the land and the ancient peoples who inhabited it was a mind-bending experience. As a young person attending a religious grade school that did not teach scientific subjects that would have explained the phenomenons that I was experiencing in Utah, this trip was a remedial earth science lesson. I have so much more to learn. Yes, there were dinosaurs on this land, but the land was at the equator in those times millions of years ago. And the ocean floors were lifted up so one is often walking on sand at high elevations. . .