Mexico Continued

Following the Monarch trip, I met up in Huatulco with the gang from Chiripa. This required an early flight from Morelia to Mexico City and a 6 hour layover before flying on to Huatulco. I believe I will no longer be reluctant to fly through Mexico City. That's a good thing.

The sun rises over one of the nine bays around Huatulco.

Huatulco is on the southern Pacific coast of Oaxaca and is a "new" development. We stayed at the Princess Mayev hotel with a poolside room. 

The pool was usually hopping with Mexican families and only a couple of pale Gringos.

We did tourist things like hanging out at a couple beaches (La Entrega was best) snorkeling and splashing in the ocean. I loved the ocean water. I could float! My dense body has always sunk like a rock in water. Here I felt like a feather floating on the ocean. And I loved looking at beautiful fish just under the surface.

We hired a driver for a day and we took in an eco-preserve (La Ventanilla) where we saw crocodiles, turtles, and birds while paddling to an island where there is a coconut plantation, animal restoration, a museum, and a small restaurant. Then we drove a short distance to a turtle museum and a cosmetic factory in Mazunte. Be sure to read the story about the owner of The Body Shop coming to Mazunte and helping to establish a business to replace the turtle harvesting that was outlawed.

Our favorite meal place in Huatulco was at Terra Cotta (The link goes to the hotel connected to the restaurant. Just click on the restaurant icon.). We had a great dinner and went back for a breakfast. Air conditioned and quiet. 

Overall, the weather was hot and humid and I felt like a tourist. I'll likely not return.

Jim takes in Oaxaca with our mini-plane in the background. 

We took a small plane from Huatulco to Oaxaca de Juarez flying low enough to see the winding mountainous road we could have been on. We checked into our old favorite hotel Las Golandrinas. Here the elevation is higher and the weather is cooler and less humid (all year long!).

The breakfast area outside our door at Las Golandrinas.

We spent time visiting with our former vendors catching up on news of the families. We were lucky to find all of the Chavez family in Oaxaca although not at the same time. Janet is about to pursue her doctorate in linguistics (I think) and Omar who recently graduated with an engineering degree may be trying his skills in Monterry. Brother Eric who was our very first Chavez connection is embarking on a new position with the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation connecting artisans with commercial vendors. And Eric's wife Elsa who manages a natural textile dying operation is pregnant with their first child. Whew! So fun to see them all!

The Chavez family L to R: Federico, Dolores, Janet, and Omar at their weaving shop in Oaxaca.

Bulmaro Perez was at his home and workshop in Teotitlan del Valle.
He can charm anyone!

A bus ride out to Arrazola took us to the workshop of the people who made the many lizards we sold at Chiripa. Josefina and Oscar were both working. If was fun to see them and meet their daughter who is continuing the tradition.

Josefina Morales and Oscar Carrillo at their workshop in Arrazola, Oaxaca.

Shopping was on the list of things to do, but it's not the same when you're not buying inventory for a shop! We also visited our favorite museums: stamps and textiles.

We took a bus from Oaxaca to Puebla and met up with the Paredes family. They took us to the new Baroque Museum where we had a spectacular meal. We're hoping they will visit us in Madison next fall.

Miguel and Lilia on the left and Daniel on the right.

Our red-eye to Chicago was uneventful and we arrived home via bus before noon. It was cold and windy and grey reminding me of why I love Mexico.

Visiting Monarchs in Mexico

The mystery of the monarch migration and their threatened status compelled me to visit their winter hibernating grounds in the state of Michoacan in central Mexico. I had seen them many years ago and remember a frigid morning, a bumpy ride in the back of a pickup truck, and many beautiful monarchs dead on the ground because of the recent freeze. This time I hit the jackpot! Warm weather had pushed up the migration and I saw thousands leaving the mountain and heading south. Those still at the reserve and sanctuary were out in huge numbers. Some were still in clumps on branches and against tree trunks. All were breathtaking.

We visited two preserves. Each offered the option of hiking or riding horseback up the mountain.

Telephoto lens used to see these monarchs plastered to the tree. Amazing!

I believe the fates were teaching me a lesson. "Come to experience the beauty. Leave the recording to others." The first night of my visit my camera took a dive face-first shattering the exterior protective lens. The short zoom seemed to operate but with a stubborn hitch. The electronics seemed OK. But, alas, although there were no images on the card a message read “card full.” I gave up on the second day and I snapped a couple with my phone and sat down and took in the experience. My attempt at a video is kind of cool. 

Magical. Amazing. Spiritual. Transformative. Many words came from the lips of our group. For each it was a little different. For me, it reinforced the power of nature; the mystery of why things happen; and a commitment to do what I can to help these amazing creatures survive.

Not the focus or quality I wanted, but a peek at these fleeting beauties.

We look for them in Wisconsin in the summer and send them on their way south in the fall. Visiting the monarch’s southern home took us into the homes of host families who support this tour. Visit the website: www.Concer3.com. My roommate and I had the good fortune of staying with Jorge and Rosa and their two sons. What a spectacular family! They treated us like family and that included a lot of love. The trip would not have been the same without them.

Each morning we woke to find the table set and coffee ready.

Chilequiles, papaya, smoothie, hot chocolate, and more. What a breakfast feast!

Our host family. ¡Muchas gracias!

The second half of the trip took me to familiar territory in the Patzcuaro area and that, too, felt like a homecoming. I miss shopping for the beautiful artisan crafts of Michoacan. Mexico will always be a very special place for me.

Ancient convent wall in Patzcuaro, Michoacan, Mexico.

Mexican flag in Morelia, the capital of the state of Michoacan, Mexico.

Missing from this post: the frustration of the 5 (!*!#!) days that it took for 7 of us to get our "lost" luggage from American Airlines. Note to self: don't leave from Madison, WI in the winter if the trip schedule is critical. De-icing was our downfall; limited rescheduling options.

De-icing at the Madison airport prior to take-off.
Too bad the unit stopped working!