New York Lights

I saw an ad in the New York Times promoting special exhibits at the MET (Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City). I thought to myself, "I'd like to see that." And I asked myself, "Why not?" A check of our calendar found the first weekend of December open and a bonus: we could be in New York for Jim's birthday. With not a little research and decision-making we booked flights and a room November 29th until December 3. I picked a play and a dance performance ahead, but left most decisions to chance. Here's a brief look at what we did.

Not a great photo but documents us at this point in our lives.

We flew out of O'Hare mid-day. Perfect! Good weather, no lines at the airport, plenty of time to spare. Note to self: schedule flights mid-weekday. On the other end things were not so quick. We took a cab to Midtown Manhattan and arrived just as thousands of people were converging on Rockefeller Center for the tree lighting. I knew about the lighting, but I wasn't aware that it's also a big performance with bands and celebrities, etc. Short story: stuck in traffic; nice cab driver let us out a couple blocks from the hotel. We stayed at The Hotel at Times Square. Great location; walked everywhere! The hotel is not cheap; the room was fine (not deluxe) and included continental breakfast. I worked hard not to think about the cost.

 

We're at the theater just a couple hours after arrival. Whew!

The first night we avoided the crowds and checked out the TKTS booth. We got second row seats for John Leguisamo's one-man show Latin History for Morons. It was very funny although the content is tragic. Before the show we had a quick bite at Iguana NYC a restaurant and dance club next to the theater on 54th St. It was perfect!

After the show we walked down to Bryant Park to see skaters and Christmas shops. Too tired to appreciate much.

Christmas dinos welcome us to AMNH

The next day, Thursday, November 30th was Jim's birthday. The weather was mild. A trip to the American Museum of Natural History was his choice. We took a long walk through Central Park and past the John Lennon "Imagine" memorial. The museum had a special sensory exhibit, but it felt too "kid-proof" and we needed to weave our way around too many school children. Once we got into the other parts of the museum it was great. Information overload for me. The dinosaurs are spectacular. The birds need to be updated.

Chez Napolean was Jim's choice for dinner. John Leide took us there many, many years ago. We enjoyed a very proper French dinner and shared a bottle of wine. 

Crowds prevent most good shots at Rockefeller Center.

We strolled over to see the tree and skaters at Rockefeller Center. It will always be special because of the year I took Heather to New York to visit our friend Kathleen (Jim was in Antarctica). It must have been around 1977. It was my first time seeing the tree live and I swooned. Heather was completely indifferent. I think she was too young to appreciate the enormity of the tree and its iconic place in New York holiday lights.

Friday was Art Day starting with a long walk to the Guggenheim to see a special exhibit of Josef Albers in Mexico. His squares and patterns are based on some of the Mexican ruins and architecture of some of our favorite places in Mexico. It was fun to see his photos of traveling there in the 40s and 50s.  His car was parked right next to the ruins at Monte Alban!

 

Michelangelo's pillows. Looks like a good exercise to me!

Then to the MET. What a treat! The Michelangelo exhibit was huge and absolutely amazing. Sometimes it was hard to see the art through the people, but I was patient because for some of the drawings you have to be very close to see the detail. What a master! A second special show was Rodin. 

I of course searched out Camille Claudel his "assistant." What a tragedy that so much of her work was lost. And the final special exhibit was Hockney. OK, but I think a John Leide exhibit from the same period would be much more interesting. And then I cruised through my favorite impressionists seeking out the pastels.

The evening's event was the Alvin Ailey dance performance. It, too, was a nod to that early trip with Heather. Her love of dance started with an Alvin Ailey performance. This night three pieces were performed. The first was haunting, the second irritating, and the third Revelations, their classic piece. It started beautifully, but the end felt like a Broadway Musical that got people excited. So, I guess that's a mixed review from me.

The door to MOMATH!

Jim rides the square-wheeled tricycle at MOMATH.

Jim picked out MOMATH (the National Museum of Mathmatics). I was afraid it would be like the sensory exhibit at Natural History. But to my delight it was wonderful! First, we were there relatively early on a weekend, so not too many kids. We tried out as many experiments as we could. It was fun and challenging. From there we walked through Little Italy to Chinatown. I was surprised at how "shoppy" it is everywhere and CROWDED. 

We walked from Chinatown to the 9/ll Memorial. I felt very sad and somber and shocked at the party-like attitude of many visitors. "Say Cheese!" No, please don't.

We headed back to Midtown and dinner was at Chimichurri Grill an Argentinian restaurant. Very nice. They gave us a table without a reservation. I was desperate to sit down and eat before the theater.

Our final night's event was 20th Century Blues a play about 4 women who met in the 70s and meet annually and sit for a photo by the one who is a photographer. I loved the play, but it reminded me of Nancy (a close friend who died this fall) and her friends from college; some of whom have stayed friends all these years. At the end of the play when one woman doesn't come on the stage I burst into tears. As we talked later about the premise of the play it seems there are so many groups that could have those same interactions. They're not all best friends, but they support each other. It's book group. It's Yippy Skippy tennis pals. It's Spanish class that's morphed into friends. It's women talking about issues in our lives. I thought the play was very well done. See it if you get a chance.  

Check out those cats on Tiffany's walls!

Sunday was our final day with lunch at La Bonne Soupe; French again and a favorite. I always have the onion soup with wine and bread and salad and chocolate mousse for dessert. A walk in Central Park with a final look at the tree before a very easy trip home.

Overheard while checking out windows:"They're nailing it with the mannequins this year."

Had to visit the lions at the NY Public Library.
Merry Christmas!

Another Year

I turned 67 on May 2nd. It started as a cold, wet, and windy day. I try to be positive on my birthday; I'm not sure why. Life is OK. I still don't feel like I'm contributing enough, but I'm busy and can't imagine adding more to the schedule without resenting it. By the time I left my Yippy, Skippy tennis match (indoors) the sun was out and my spirits lifted.

The bellwort were prolific this year.
The Brewers are starting out good and Trump is our president :(

I feel the need for a change. We've lived in this house over 20 years. I still have the energy to make a new house our home and I think we have enough good years to do that. But, the place would need to be special. I say it needs a "Vista" but that really means it needs a "Wow!" factor that is either in the building itself or the space around it. Minneapolis? A lake? Remodel this one? In the meantime, I'm working to improve this space. New blinds in the living/dining rooms. New wall color in the living room. Out with the old shelves. Major project opening up the door of the oven to clean the glass. What a crazy design. Next will be some outside projects.

Facebook BD greetings have replaced Hallmark. I'm pretty hooked, but still like cards

"Be bold," I continue to tell myself.

Book Group Spring 2017

Book: Homegoing
Author: Ya'a Gyasi
Meeting: Wednesday, April 19 at Crystel's
Dessert: blueberry pound cake and custard

The history of slavery from it's beginning on the Gold Coast of Africa through the generations of tribes in Africa and those same generations of African Americans in the US to the present. This was a hard read for me. It's one of those books that you know you aught to read but also know the people and images will haunt you. They do.

Book: The Star Side of Bird Hill
Author: Naomi Jackson
Meeting: Wednesday, May 17th at Jane's

Phaedra and Dionne, two sisters living in Brooklyn in the 1980's, are sent by their mother to spend the summer with their grandmother in Barbados. There's a lot of tragedy and a good dose of coming of age that made it feel like a young adult novel. Good story and good discussion, but not a must read.

Mexico Continued

Following the Monarch trip, I met up in Huatulco with the gang from Chiripa. This required an early flight from Morelia to Mexico City and a 6 hour layover before flying on to Huatulco. I believe I will no longer be reluctant to fly through Mexico City. That's a good thing.

The sun rises over one of the nine bays around Huatulco.

Huatulco is on the southern Pacific coast of Oaxaca and is a "new" development. We stayed at the Princess Mayev hotel with a poolside room. 

The pool was usually hopping with Mexican families and only a couple of pale Gringos.

We did tourist things like hanging out at a couple beaches (La Entrega was best) snorkeling and splashing in the ocean. I loved the ocean water. I could float! My dense body has always sunk like a rock in water. Here I felt like a feather floating on the ocean. And I loved looking at beautiful fish just under the surface.

We hired a driver for a day and we took in an eco-preserve (La Ventanilla) where we saw crocodiles, turtles, and birds while paddling to an island where there is a coconut plantation, animal restoration, a museum, and a small restaurant. Then we drove a short distance to a turtle museum and a cosmetic factory in Mazunte. Be sure to read the story about the owner of The Body Shop coming to Mazunte and helping to establish a business to replace the turtle harvesting that was outlawed.

Our favorite meal place in Huatulco was at Terra Cotta (The link goes to the hotel connected to the restaurant. Just click on the restaurant icon.). We had a great dinner and went back for a breakfast. Air conditioned and quiet. 

Overall, the weather was hot and humid and I felt like a tourist. I'll likely not return.

Jim takes in Oaxaca with our mini-plane in the background. 

We took a small plane from Huatulco to Oaxaca de Juarez flying low enough to see the winding mountainous road we could have been on. We checked into our old favorite hotel Las Golandrinas. Here the elevation is higher and the weather is cooler and less humid (all year long!).

The breakfast area outside our door at Las Golandrinas.

We spent time visiting with our former vendors catching up on news of the families. We were lucky to find all of the Chavez family in Oaxaca although not at the same time. Janet is about to pursue her doctorate in linguistics (I think) and Omar who recently graduated with an engineering degree may be trying his skills in Monterry. Brother Eric who was our very first Chavez connection is embarking on a new position with the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation connecting artisans with commercial vendors. And Eric's wife Elsa who manages a natural textile dying operation is pregnant with their first child. Whew! So fun to see them all!

The Chavez family L to R: Federico, Dolores, Janet, and Omar at their weaving shop in Oaxaca.

Bulmaro Perez was at his home and workshop in Teotitlan del Valle.
He can charm anyone!

A bus ride out to Arrazola took us to the workshop of the people who made the many lizards we sold at Chiripa. Josefina and Oscar were both working. If was fun to see them and meet their daughter who is continuing the tradition.

Josefina Morales and Oscar Carrillo at their workshop in Arrazola, Oaxaca.

Shopping was on the list of things to do, but it's not the same when you're not buying inventory for a shop! We also visited our favorite museums: stamps and textiles.

We took a bus from Oaxaca to Puebla and met up with the Paredes family. They took us to the new Baroque Museum where we had a spectacular meal. We're hoping they will visit us in Madison next fall.

Miguel and Lilia on the left and Daniel on the right.

Our red-eye to Chicago was uneventful and we arrived home via bus before noon. It was cold and windy and grey reminding me of why I love Mexico.

Visiting Monarchs in Mexico

The mystery of the monarch migration and their threatened status compelled me to visit their winter hibernating grounds in the state of Michoacan in central Mexico. I had seen them many years ago and remember a frigid morning, a bumpy ride in the back of a pickup truck, and many beautiful monarchs dead on the ground because of the recent freeze. This time I hit the jackpot! Warm weather had pushed up the migration and I saw thousands leaving the mountain and heading south. Those still at the reserve and sanctuary were out in huge numbers. Some were still in clumps on branches and against tree trunks. All were breathtaking.

We visited two preserves. Each offered the option of hiking or riding horseback up the mountain.

Telephoto lens used to see these monarchs plastered to the tree. Amazing!

I believe the fates were teaching me a lesson. "Come to experience the beauty. Leave the recording to others." The first night of my visit my camera took a dive face-first shattering the exterior protective lens. The short zoom seemed to operate but with a stubborn hitch. The electronics seemed OK. But, alas, although there were no images on the card a message read “card full.” I gave up on the second day and I snapped a couple with my phone and sat down and took in the experience. My attempt at a video is kind of cool. 

Magical. Amazing. Spiritual. Transformative. Many words came from the lips of our group. For each it was a little different. For me, it reinforced the power of nature; the mystery of why things happen; and a commitment to do what I can to help these amazing creatures survive.

Not the focus or quality I wanted, but a peek at these fleeting beauties.

We look for them in Wisconsin in the summer and send them on their way south in the fall. Visiting the monarch’s southern home took us into the homes of host families who support this tour. Visit the website: www.Concer3.com. My roommate and I had the good fortune of staying with Jorge and Rosa and their two sons. What a spectacular family! They treated us like family and that included a lot of love. The trip would not have been the same without them.

Each morning we woke to find the table set and coffee ready.

Chilequiles, papaya, smoothie, hot chocolate, and more. What a breakfast feast!

Our host family. ¡Muchas gracias!

The second half of the trip took me to familiar territory in the Patzcuaro area and that, too, felt like a homecoming. I miss shopping for the beautiful artisan crafts of Michoacan. Mexico will always be a very special place for me.

Ancient convent wall in Patzcuaro, Michoacan, Mexico.

Mexican flag in Morelia, the capital of the state of Michoacan, Mexico.

Missing from this post: the frustration of the 5 (!*!#!) days that it took for 7 of us to get our "lost" luggage from American Airlines. Note to self: don't leave from Madison, WI in the winter if the trip schedule is critical. De-icing was our downfall; limited rescheduling options.

De-icing at the Madison airport prior to take-off.
Too bad the unit stopped working!

Florida Road Trip, January 2017

A wedding invitation was the motivation for this January road trip. Who can resist a Florida beach wedding in January?

Day 1: We left Madison on January 1st (a Sunday) hoping to get far enough south on day one to avoid a coming Midwest storm. We made it to Paducah, KY. Great city, but of course everything was closed on New Years day (Sunday) and the day after. Oh, well.

Day 2: On to Nashville to visit Parnassus, the bookstore owned by Ann Pachett one of my favorite authors. Great space. Bought a couple signed books, but was disappointed that there were no dogs under foot. The weather was warm. Pansy's in planters.

My first destination: Ann Patchett's Parnassus bookstore in Nashville.

Drove on through North Carolina but chose not to stop in support of the bathroom boycott. Made it to South Carolina in the dark and rain. Long Day. [Travelers note: always have box wine with you.]

Day 3: Pushed on to the Georgia coast and serendipitously stopped to explore the Harris Neck Wildlife Area. Tested out my new lens on birds and alligators. 

Baby alligator!

Crossed a spectacular bridge near Brunswick, GA. Stopped near the border of Florida in St. Mary's.

Day 4: Drove down the east coast of Florida. The Florida rest/welcome center serves samples of orange- and grapefruit juice. Nice touch. We got off I95 to cruise A1A for part of the trip south. Had good coffee and "Ausie Pies" at the Kookaburra in St. Augustine!

Made it to Dania Beach, Florida around 4:30 where we checked into our rooms at Sheridan Suites Apartments. We meet up with Sharon and Gary (parents of Andrea the bride) and Tom and Susan. We walk to Publix for supplies for our 6 day stay. Snacks by the pool. Andrea and Jonny stop by for a visit. They seem happy and confident.

Day 5: Slow Thursday morning. Drive to the boardwalk to people watch and soak in the sun. It is HOT! We eat Mahi tacos for lunch. In the afternoon we pick up Heather and Greg at the Ft. Lauderdale airport (Terminal 2). Dinner is at Giorgio's and our table is right on the water. I had the special: seafood over pasta. Loved it!

Day 6: Did some wedding errands on Friday. Visit the nearby Anne Kolb Nature Center. It's a lovely area with great boardwalks for viewing the intercostal birds. It's raining a little. 

Greg got pretty close to this one!

When we get back to the apartment we learn of the shooting at the Ft. Lauderdale airport. It is happening at Terminal 2 where Heather and Greg were just 24 hours before, and close to where Sharon and Gary are RIGHT NOW! picking up Juan, their son. They get caught in traffic but arrive back safely with Juan.

While the wedding family goes to the rehearsal dinner, our family seeks out another local restaurant. We find Jimbo's Sandbar also on the water. Live music. I have catfish tacos. No one falls in the water. Fun place, weather is changing.

Back at the ranch, we learn that Jonny and a couple of his groomsmen, who work for the police dept. were not able to leave their work responsibilities because of the shooting at the airport. (But he will get his wedding day off!)

Day 7: The wedding day was cool and overcast. A morning rain passed through. Heather and I paint our toenails blue to go with our "Beach Formal" dresses. 

The wedding was dry, but windy and filled with laughter and love. The posed shot I missed was Jonny holding Andrea above his head! (They are both crossfire junkies!) The reception and dance turned cold and wet, but not before people had plenty of time for fun. The pictures tell the story.

The venue: Dania Beach State Park, Florida. 

The newlyweds: Jonathan and Andrea!

Mom, brother and dad share a post wedding moment.

It's what mom's do.

Becca was there, of course!

Jim as "beach fancy" as he gets!

Paella for everyone!

Andrea makes the rounds.

Heather gets a salsa lesson from Juan.

Day 8: A post-wedding brunch at Ana's house (mother of the groom) gave us a taste of Florida living.

Yes, that's a boat behind the palm trees. We're not in Wisconsin anymore!

Sister and Brother share some time and laughs.

Later that day we find a restaurant for watching an evening Packer game on a large screen. They win. We are not popular. (I can't remember who they played.)

Day 9: Monday we take Heather and Greg to the airport and then drive to Flamingo Gardens. My personal highlight was watching the otters get fed. I love otters. This is not a zoo, it's a botanical garden and wildlife sanctuary.

Barn owl as an ambassador for the facility.

Do I smell fish?

A sharp turn. So cool to have the underwater perspective!

An otter dock. Life is good.

Day 10 and 11: We pack up, say our goodbyes and drive over to A1A to stay off the freeway and head south. We eventually make it through Miami and head to Everglades National Park. We camp two nights on the edge of Florida Bay. Spectacular sun rises. Woke one morning to splashing, looked out the tent door and saw a dolphin jumping. Great way to wake up! Went to program on manatees. Took boat ride to get to some back country. Hiked along some trails. Great alligators on the Anhinga trail. It's a fascinating area with many challenges.

Daybreak on the Florida Bay.

Lingering with campsite coffee as we watch the morning birds.
(Yes, we drip our  high-test coffee through a filter held by a plastic funnel into a very old thermos.
Almost as good as home. And quicker!)

Crocodile on the canal (salt water).

Alligators on the Anhinga Trail (freshwater).

The moon sets in the west. . .

. . . just as the sun rises in the east.

Day 12: Decided to drive up the center of the state to avoid some coastal congestion. Hmmm. Road construction and lots of cars. Pretty boring day.

Day 13: Goal was to get to Paynes Prairie (recommended by KZ). Got the last campsite. Hiked. Interesting place, but decided not to stay longer. On way north we decided to seek out the path on the north edge of the prairie. Wow! hundreds of alligators, lots of birds, turtles, horses, buffalo and 10,000 sandhill cranes. This is one of their southern stations. It seemed like such a perfect bookend: in the spring we saw hundreds of thousands of cranes heading north through Kearny, NB and here we saw their winter home. They make quite a racket!

No audio to share the cacophony of 10,000 cranes!
And no fancy camera and lens. I was walking light with only my phone.

Bill (our nickname for all great blue herons) was just by the side of the path. 

Day 14: From Paynes Prairie we head east. Drive to Manatee Springs State Park. No room in the campsite, but we walk around. Cool places to dive. (Who knew!) Actually saw a couple manatees. Stayed in Wakulla and ate at a recommended fish shop, Posey's. Jim had mullet and I had a heap of shrimp. (I don't think we've eaten anything but seafood on this trip.)

Day 15: We drive along the Florida panhandle. The beaches are enticing. We get the last campsite at a state park on St George's Island. The white sand beaches and seashells win me over. There's a towhee at our campsite and lots of yellow-romped warblers.

Jim dozes on St. George's Island.

I read my book group book, A Spool of Blue Thread by Anne Tyler.

We walk the beach and look for shells.

We appreciate all the park does to preserve this special place.

Day 16: We continue west. The density starts to build and we head north at Panama City. Although it is very congested, there are still public access places to the beaches and the views are beautiful.

Day 17: Our first planned stop on the northbound drive is the civil rights memorial in Montgomery, AL. The sculpture was designed by Maya Lin (Vietnam Veterans Memorial in DC) and the park and a museum are operated by the Southern Poverty Law Center, an organization I've supported for a long time. Their work has just gotten harder.

Civil Rights memorial, Montgomery, Alabama.

Next stop is in Lynchburg, TN and the Jack Daniels distillery. The charcoal filtering most fascinated me. Good tour, good tasting. Jim is driving! It's raining and cool.

A statue of Jack Daniel outside the springs that provide the water for the whiskey.

My favorite on the left (#27). $100 a bottle. I passed.

The tasting is in an area with the single barrel batches. Nicely done.

Day 18:  We stop again at Pahduca, Ky and visit the National Quilt Museum. (No photos allowed.) Amazing works of art. 

And then on to our final stop in Champaign, IL to visit Kathleen a friend from library school. Cool house with William Morris wallpaper. We start hatching plans for future trips.

Day 19: Arrived back home in Madison on Thursday. We have driven over 4,000 miles. Warmish. Grey. No snow left on the ground. Quite ready to sleep in my own bed.