Finding Diego and Frida in Mexico City

Jim and I joined a tour organized by Norma Schaefer called: Looking for Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera in Mexico City: an Art History Tour. If you follow this link you will find an explanation of the tour and a promotion for the tour in 2016. You'll find me and Jim in several of the photos. I won't go into details of the tour since Norma does such a good job of that. I'll share some of my feelings and experiences with the tour and the city.

Frida and Diego lived in this house 1929 - 1954.

I have wanted to visit Casa Azul (Frida's home) for quite some time. But, it never seemed to be on anyone else's agenda when we traveled to Mexico to buy for Chiripa. Norma is a mutual friend of some weavers in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca and I thought this would be a good way to learn how to navigate in Mexico City. I was pleasantly surprised when Jim announced that he would go with me. (He's not a big Frida fan.)

A most impressive Rivera mural at the National Palace.

A full-size draft for a piece of a mural
(on display at the Olmeda museum, also on the tour).

Taking a break with Norma and Valeria at the gourmet food market.

 I don't know why I had been apprehensive about traveling to Mexico City. It's just like every other place we've visited in Mexico, only bigger. The people are super friendly if you ask them questions; the city is clean; and it feels safe. 

Our room at Cillout Flat.

 We stayed at a B & B called Chillout Flat. It was perfect: centrally located, pleasant people (who also speak English), great food, comfortable bed. What else could you want?

Sunday at Alameda Park in the Diego Rivera Mural Museum just off the park.

Close up from mural. Notice Frida and the young man is Diego as a boy.

The first two days of the tour are spent visiting some of the impressive murals created by Diego Rivera. There are also murals on the tour that are done by Diego's contemporaries. The history and the contrast puts Diego's in perspective. I gained a new appreciation for his work.

Our group at Casa Azul (Blue House) with Norma in the center.

Visiting Casa Azul, the home where Frida and Diego lived was the highlight of the trip for me. (Jim was not so impressed.) I like seeing the perspective of the house, the size, the open spaces, the kitchen. It is very much like it was when she died (1954). Her rooms were sealed for 50 years. When the historians and restoration people had access to the rooms they found treasures that are now shared with the public. 

Photograph of Frida Kahlo by Nickolas Muray

Art supplies in Frida's studio.

Her studio is up a stairway and opens with windows on two sides. Her paints, her brushes, her easel, her wheelchair . . . it's all there as she left it. (I don't really believe it was left that neat.) 

Mirror above bed in the daytime bedroom.

Frida had two bedrooms, a day bedroom and a night bedroom. The bed in the day bedroom has a mirror above the bed so that she could work while in bed. Above the bed in the night bedroom is a collection of butterflies. As I walked out of her rooms and down the stairway to the courtyard I felt very emotional. . .

Frida's studio windows from the inner courtyard.

A new documentary was playing in an area of the courtyard. It's good, but I shouldn't have spent so much time watching it. There is a separate exhibit of Frida's clothes and accouterments including some of her medical devices. If you love Frida, you MUST go.

Our art historian guide Valeria was a delightful addition to the group. She is a native of Mexico City, speaks English, and shared freely her insights and opinions about art, history, and Mexico.

Valeria Alejandra Espitia Ducoing speaking with the group.

Valeria's boots the day we went to Frida's. Cool!

Food was good. We made a couple choices that I'd revise on another trip. The subway was great going to Chapultapec park. Coming home at rush hour was almost impossible. It took three trains before we could squeeze on and then we kept getting more and more squished. Getting off required determined pushing. It would have been better to have had dinner near the park and taken a later subway train.

Jim ordered Fish Balls at El Mayor, a restaurant that overlooks the Templo Mayor
(the Aztec ruins on top of which the Spaniards built). Best meal for him.

The Anthropology museum is overwhelming. It's great, but I can only take in so much ancient stuff. 

Mayan codixes.

 Luckily, there is also a modern art museum nearby. It houses a Frida Kahlo painting (Two Fridas) that is huge! I'm glad I got to see it. 

Young woman photographing Two Fridas

We stumbled upon a temporary exhibit of the works of photographer of Lee Miller. She was married to Man Ray and learned the art from him. She went on to become a celebrated photographer and worked as a photo journalist in WW2 in Europe. She was there for the liberation of the death camps in Germany. Some of the images are hard to view. I did not know of her work. 

On a lighter note, we found an artisan market and did some shopping. It felt like Chiripa all over again!

Walls around the Zocalo illuminated with holiday lights.

We arrived in Mexico City as the city prepared for it's holiday festivities. Surprisingly, there was skating on the Zocalo (the famous center of the city) and one of the pedestrian streets hosted parades and performances. On our last night there was SNOW falling from the sky. It was manufactured, but people were ecstatic! 

Skating on the Zocalo.

SNOW in Mexico City!

I'd go back again! There are way too many museums and sites and restaurants to take in in a week's time. Don't be afraid. It's a great city. And, if you don't want to do it alone join Norma's tour.