Cemeteries Here and There

I visited the cemetery in La Crosse where Mom and Dad (and Grandma and Grandpa Schreiber) are buried. I still find it hard to believe that Mom isn't here. The wreath I ordered looked over the plot, but it had no joy. The day was grey, overcast and foggy, just like my mood. The year of death had been inscribed on the headstone. All was final, the place desolate, me the sole visitor in the solemn park. I couldn't help but compare the space with the vibrant celebrations that I witnessed in the cemeteries in Oaxaca. We don't know how to honor our dead. We put them aside, we move on.

I made what I call my Ofrenda Navidad (Christmas Alter) on my mantel. I placed photographs and objects under the wreath that was lit with the lights we used to have at home and ornaments from Mom and Dad's trees. The display has given me the chance to talk about my parents with friends visiting this holiday season. I've shared some stories and know that some I need to record.

The year is coming to a close. I will spend the final days off-line in frigid northern Wisconsin. I'm hoping for ski-able snow, cozy fires, and a little time to read and write and get ready for the new year. I'm hoping mine has fewer calamities and continued journeys as I discover what my retirement is meant to be. 

Oaxaca, Mexico. November 2014 - Part Two

The City of Oaxaca

On my first day in Oaxaca I came across a wedding celebration outside Santo Domingo: an off-key band blasting traditional Mexican music, lovely dancers in traditional dress, and a drone flying over Santo Domingo photographing the event.

It was the perfect contradiction that I find all over Mexico; the honoring of ancient traditions with the acceptance of whatever is new, in this case technology. You've got to love this country.

SPECIAL EVENTS, November 2014

Day of the Dead
I wrote of this in the last post, but failed to mention some of the street activities like the sand paintings and murals that I passed every day.

A special exhibit near Santo Domingo showcased food and crafts of the season. I got to watch a man make a molinillo (the wooden whisk used to froth Mexican chocolate) using a lathe and a chisel.

Book Fair: 34 Feria Internacional del Libro Oaxaca 2014
Tents filled with books, stages for readings and discussions, areas for storytelling and kid's activities . . . (www.filoaxaca.com) I wished I knew more Spanish. . .

A very cool stand for book display.

Music Festival: Instrumenta Oaxaca 2014
Free concerts every day for over two weeks. Internationally famous musicians. Beautiful music in gorgeous venues. (www.instrumenta.mx) No need to know Spanish.

Guest guitarist Thomas Muller-Pering with a Oaxacan symphony orchestra.

MUSEUMS

I have a special connection to the Museo Textil de Oaxaca. (www.museotextildeoaxaca.org.mx) 

Eric Chavez, the educational director at the museum, was one of the first weavers we met in Teotitlan del Valle in the late 1990s. At that time he was innovating with personal interpretations of traditional Zapotec designs and experimenting with natural dyes. Now at the museum, he gave us a special tour in English of the exhibit of the work of Irmgard W. Johnson, a U.S. woman who traveled in Mexico documenting indigenous textile techniques with meticulous notes, drawings and samples of the clothing. The temporary exhibit changed at the end of my stay and I was privileged to see another stunning presentation of textiles died with purple shellfish, cochineal, and indigo and an accompanying photo exhibit of the works of Rafael Doniz.

Another delightful museum that should be on everyone's list is the Stamp Museum, or as it is officially known MUFI Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca (www.mufi.org.mx). It's open long hours and is free (as is the Textile Museum). You will find amazing displays and filing systems as well as delightful open spaces. 

Both of these museums receive funding from the Alfredo Harp Helú Foundation (http://www.fahh.com.mx/). This foundation also funded the previously mentioned music festival and book fair. Every city should be so lucky to have private money supporting public arts (and other civic causes).

STREET LIFE

There is always something happening in Oaxaca. And even when it appears quiet, the parks and the architecture and the people provide easy entertainment.

To be continued in a future post. . .

(A month of activities with a camera or two in my hand at all times has made this "summary" quite difficult. I will post more photos and thoughts later, but for now I will turn my attention to the holidays.)

Oaxaca, Mexico. November 2014 - Part One

The Beginning
A month in one place in the warm climate of Mexico. This was one of my goals for post-retirment from Chiripa.

View from my Oaxaca apartment rooftop looking east.

I wanted to see if I liked it and how I would spend my time. Circumstances made November a good choice: a perfect place in Oaxaca found on VRBO/Vacation Rental By Owner (http://www.vrbo.com/407237) and what I thought would be not the coldest of times in Wisconsin, but cold enough to make me appreciate the warm Mexican sun. Little did I know that the Polar Vortex would descend again in November on Wisconsin. I felt a bit smug.

Papaya for breakfast every morning!

Dia de los Muertos/Day of the Dead
I arrived in Oaxaca, Mexico on October 31st just in time to partake of the many Day of the Dead activities going on in the city. I have a deep respect for this ancient ritual of honoring and communing with departed loved ones. 

Many businesses have ofrendas (alters). 

This one was at Las Golondrinas, a favorite hotel.

The street scene at night in Oaxaca had a feeling similar to "Freak Fest" in Madison, Wi; people strolling the pedestrian walks and Zocalo (central park) in costume, some posing for photo ops and collecting donations. I tend to avoid the crowds in Madison and this was just a small amusement for me.

What appeared to be an almost spontaneous parade convened beneath the rooftop restaurant where I was dining. The pope brought up the rear!

The real attraction for me was the cemeteries. On November 2nd I experienced two. In the afternoon I walked to the huge Panteón San Miguel (the Oaxaca cemetery). People were arriving with loads of flowers, marimbas were playing, food was being shared. I had only my phone camera, but tried to capture some of the ambiance.

In the evening I went with a small tour group to the neighborhood cemetery of San Filipe de Agua. There I experienced the chaos, the music, the rituals, and the flowers of Dia de los Muertos traditions. 

I did feel intrusive with my camera and my gauking, but this community seemed well prepared for the curious tourists and I've heard that many families wait until after the interlopers have gone back to their hotels to pay their tributes.

My Oaxaca Digs
Finding my apartment on VRBO was one of those Chiripa moments (a happy accident). 

Callas from the local tianguis (pop-up market)

The place was perfect for me. As the owner showed me around I kept recognizing the folk art that we had purchased for Chiripa! I knew the artists! It was like walking back into the shop. She even had a custom-made hammered copper table-top. 

Jenna and Karen at Heirve el Augua

The first two weeks I was joined by Karen (my Spanish teacher in Madison) and her daughter Jenna from Albequerque. I was taking Spanish classes at this time, so we would often meet up in the afternoon and go out for dinner in the evening.

Jennifer and Brian enjoying a glass of wine at Tres Bistro on the zócalo

Week three Jim joined me along with Jennifer and Brian our tennis buddies from Madison. And the final week daughter Heather visited and Jim stayed on. It's been a long time since we've spent a week together. Quite fun. 

Jim and Heather at San Augustín Etla

For apartment details go to http://www.vrbo.com/407237 and see the pictures and description. But, there's no picture of the purple exterior!

Spanish Class
Another goal for this trip was to improve my poor Spanish and timid attempts to use the language. 

I enrolled at ICO (Instituto Cultural Oaxaca) and attended classes from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. five days a week for two weeks. It wasn't really enough and I lapsed into speaking English whenever I could. But, I did work hard at it and I became more confident at initiating interactions with non-English speakers. It will be a lifelong effort for me and I'm not going to beat myself up for not being good at it. I'll just keep plodding along with my once a week class in Madison and attempt to find other ways to learn and use the language. It's quite interesting, really. I think I started too late. Oh, well.

Two classmates with my teacher Marycarmen in the center.

An affiliated non-profit organization called EnVia operates out of the school. They provide small no-interest business loans to women in the Oaxaca valley. I was intrigued by the concept and signed up (with Karen and Jenna) to take a tour of a few of the loan recipients. The cost of the tour ($700 pesos or $55 US dollars) is considered a donation and it goes toward loans for the women. The loans start at $1,500 pesos (or around $120 U. dollars). EnVia knows that the loans will help the women and their families. Their payback rate is almost 100%.

 Maria needs a loan to buy more cochineal 

(the bugs that grow on the cactus and provide the red die needed for her weaving).

Anna Mari needs a cooler so she can sell soft drinks at her corner grocery store. 

 Andrea needs more wood to fuel her tortilla business.

You, too, can help these proud women by going to the EnVia website and making a donation.

More Oaxaca photos and experiences in the next post. . .

Book Group: Sept, Oct, Nov 2014

I did not intend this blog to feature books. I just meant to use the space as a record of what my book group read and how I felt about it. Instead, it drives the posts since it happens each month. To catch up for now:

Book: The Wives of Los Alamos
Author: TaraShea Nesbit
Group meeting: Sept (did not attend; funerals in La Crosse)

Although I found the book compelling, I kept wishing for a singular story. The "we" focus made it inclusive, but less personal. I did hear a comment after the group meeting that some in the group were of that age and this made the history more real. The lives of the families isolated in the desert seemed dreadful to me.

Book: Burial Rites
Author: Hanna Kent
Date: Tuesday, Oct. 2, 2014
Place: Ginny's
Dessert: German Chocolate Cake

Not a happy story. Based on a real story of the final beheading of a woman in Iceland in the 1800s. Compelling read, almost like a mystery. I was overwhelmed by the cold and filth and lack of privacy.



Book: I know Why the Caged Bird Sings
Author Maya Angelou
Date: November (will not attend; in Mexico)

I probably won't read this. I listened to a series of essays by Maya Angelou while driving to and from the cabin last summer. This book was picked to honor the passing of Maya Angelou this year. Her life story is poignant and she is an inspiration.